sometimes, I think that one can tell where one is by the plates and food arrangements at "local" restaurants... the one that have an imprint of serving food to satisfy a hunger, and the service/servicing is by tradition — no schooling towards a Michelin star. this restaurant near Panthéon has that effect. while I visit it alone, I like to think of a friend sitting across the table, and hearing her answer to the questions I always ask about Paris, after a walk together through the city: 1) if you were governing France/Paris and the invading forces are nearby, ready to take over... do you surrender or get Paris destroyed?; and 2) if you are the last person in a retreat from Paris and you are ordered to detonate bombs to destroy a significant part of Paris... would you obey or disobey, and face the consequences? the point is not the yes/no, as there is no right answer, but to listen to the why? over the course of 2 or 3 hours to cover all the plates eaten.